Provencale Fare

In Provence, we set base in historical Arles for 2 nights to visit Les Baux and Rousillon (which is actually in the Languedoc region).

Enroute from Carcassonne to Arles, we stopped by Pont du Gard - the roman aqueduct. This was the starting point for us to feel the might and intelligence of the Romans. The Pont du Gard was part of a network of aqueducts to transport water from the source to the public. To me, it is an eye-opener on ancient civil engineering and construction. There is a museum at the entrance, which took me about an hour to go through. It was very informative on water supply in the ancient times, and how the Romans engineered this massive network with what the environment could afford. The Student could have just used 30 mins though, with speed reading and his moderate interest in the subject.

Entrance fee:18 Euros per car to enter the site, and limited to 5 pax/car. 

The 3rd level is accessible from May. But we were happy enough with the view and the manageable crowd in this season.

The smell and taste of the wind is a little different. Saw people walking their dogs and having their picnics by the river bank, such a relaxing afternoon to bask in the sun. A number of canoe shops available if you want to canoe in the river.

This is such a gigantic structure!

I'm the big friendly giant...

We've taken Mr. Steve's advice to spend our nights in Arles. We are not regretting what we did, but I just can't help feeling that Avignon might be a better place. Nonetheless, Arles is a place where history and the present marry nicely. This would also imply that it is very touristy. It was not easy manoeuvring by car in the city, carparking can be a headache after 7pm, as it will be free then. However, it is a really small town, so exploring by foot is highly recommended. It has also Spanish influence, check out their bullfighting schedules if you intend to visit in summer. We would prefer to see this in Spain, so missing the show in this season is fine with us.

Arles

The iconic river surrounding the bustling town of Arles. We crossed the bridge to the other side, and the activity counter dropped exponentially. We gathered that it is probably not worthwhile exploring anywhere else not highlighted in the tourist map. We did not spend time to visit the monuments in Arles, since the Student had enough of history in school. However, I do think it is worthwhile to set aside time (at least half a day) to visit. The monument pass that the tourist office offers is quite value for money too.

The entrance to Saint Trophime's Cathedrale, interesting sculptures depicting Judgement day.

Simply decorated walls and ceiling.

I noticed that such narrow walk ways are typical in cathedrals from this era.

Very old tapestries on the walls inside Saint Trophime's Cathedral. The Cathedral has a classic Romanesque architecture. The sculptures inside are mysterious, given that the tapestries and paintings are so old, that they are falling off their frames on the wall. Can't help imagining "who" is in the sarcophagus....err..eerie..

The local's way of voting...

This wall really displays the locals' favourite activity

Where's my Wife?

The Amphitheater - Not as impressive as the Colossuem in Rome

Street markets every Wednesdays and Saturdays along the main roads. We bought our breakfast and packed our picnic from here in the morning, and departed for Rousillon and Les Baux. Plenty of cafes along the same road for some "perk me ups" before we hit the road.

Rousillon - Classified as " Plus beaux villages de France". It is a good initiative for France to classify their villages. Some have only 1 flower, while others have more depending on their level of charm. Some of which classified are untouched, with their history well preserved. In Dordogne, we have already visited a few. Rousillon is well-known for its coloured ochered wall. Ochre is a pigment mixed with sand, and is the raw material used for painting in ancient times. The colour of the villages takes after their surroundings, as it was common for the people in the olden times to make use of the resources in their surroundings.

The village of Rousillion - this is the artists' palatte for a good reason. The village is so small, that we don't even need the map. I was fooled by the map to think that the Ochre hike entrance is too far to walk from the village. In actually fact, we could do 10 forward rolls from point to point.

Another breath-taking view.

The village taking after the colour of Ochre.

The rocks and bricks have that ochre colour naturally.

This shop sells powdered pigments of different colours...

Very well organised trail with steps on steep slopes. Family friendly with no difficulties.

Artists trying to capture the different shades of Ochre.

Panels with information on Ochre along the  trail, in different languages including English.

Les Baux - This is a village on rocks, the Chateau is standing on a spur of rocks in the Alpilles. We were expecting a Chateau before we entered the site from the village, but the truth is there was, but no more. What remained in the "Chateau des Baux de Provence" are ruins, but the audio guides are so well organised that I reconstructed the Chateau in my imaginations. It gave a magnificent 360 degree view, that I could appreciate why Les Baux was somehow invincible. It was protected by the cliffs which formed a natural wall on 1 side. The fact that it is on the spur of a rock means it is almost impossible to intrude on the other side. This is the place where I felt like the world is beneath my feet!!!

This is taken at the village

This system might be around for umpteen years already, but I was still amazed by the self sanitised toilets. When the lights are green, I go in for a maximum of 15 mins, I exit by pressing the red button from inside. Then the lights outside change to yellow, indicating that the room is being sanitised. The next person can go in when the light change to green.

I wonder what happens when the 15 mins is up? Will there be a screeching high pitch siren before ejecting me in a projectile? Or will it sanitise me together with the room? If I ever find out, I'll definitely update this post.

A display of sieges - plan the visit to watch a demonstration of how the different trebuchets work.

Local produce - Wine, olives, olives, olives, and olives....

Nostalgia - Reliving the "Age of Empire". This siege was too venerable for my liking in the game, until the Student taught me cheat codes to let my monks run faster than the horses. 

My favourite tool to attack. This particular Trebuchet has the furthest hit point, but is the most complex to operate. It involves a counter weight to swing the catapult at full force.

This one is compromised between hit point and ease of operation. Can be done with 4 ladies.

This siege discriminates short people!

This is the Chateau! A far cry from what I expected...but still magnificent in another way.

Kudos to Les Baux's tourism effort. Though this place is in ruins, there are lots to do. Siege demonstrations, films, comedies, free audio guides and archery. We spent about 3 hours here though it is not a big place.

We were there!!!!

Highest point at the ramparts

In the brochure, it stated a demonstration of a medieval duel. In actual fact, it is a comedy (in French of course).

The walk on top of the ramparts can be dangerous for old people or kids, as they can get pretty steep.

Food and Accommodation

Hotel D'Arlatan is my favourite hotel in this trip. This place exudes a mysterious aura right from the entrance. The common corridor has so much of an old world charm, I felt like I've gone back in time...

This building is a tourist attraction on its own. It was built over part of the Constantin basilica, and contained many roman relics. Right at the reception, there is a glass floor revealing what was uncovered under the hotel.

For 60 Euro/night, this is very value for money for the charm and convenience it provides. Attractions, restaurants and supermarkets are all within reach.

The furniture and lighting are so old school...and the bed is so high, it's fit for a princess to feel the peas under the mattress!

Warning: Do not open the windows, if you do, close it back properly. Otherwise, you'll be hearing eerie noises in the room. The reception told us that the electric box next to the bed is very sensitive to the air in the room, so if the windows are not properly closed, it will creak. Well, I would think that the Romans didn't really like electricity.

The bathroom is surprisingly luxurious for the price we paid for.

This is attached to the bath, separated by the door.

The deco is charming when the lights are on, but can be a little eerie when the lights go off. There are also  doors  that doesn't lead to rooms...but janitors' store rooms. They provide ice cube dispensers at the corridor too.

Spiral staircases and mezzanine rooms got us in a maze.  We got lost in this place while trying to look for our room. After that, we did not dare to wander around, for fear of finding things that we should not find....:p

Hotel entrance, our room is that window above. It can be a little noisy taking this room, with  motorists using the road, and tourists marvelling at a window revealing the archaeological findings. Below the window is the access to the private garage. We opted to park at a public carpark nearby for cost efficiency. FYI, d'Arlatan charge 16 Euro/day, no deal for the poor Student and Wife.

The lounge area, with a really old grand piano...somehow, this reminds of "Midnight in Paris"

Breakfast area

Heated pool at the side

A staircase leading underground, this looks too adventurous to explore...

Dinner/breakfast area

The garden - you can opt for breakfast here too (in summer)

The archaeological excavations at the entrance

Specialities in Provence: 

Unmistakeable Olives, from the oil to the olives served for aperitifs, there is a distinct difference in taste and the way they prepared the ingredient. Provençal cuisine use mainly herbs (herbs de Provence is my everyday ingredient...love it lots!!!), olive oil and tomatoes. Taste is not as rich as Perigord style, but the subtle taste of the ingredients they used are unmistakeable.

In Singapore, a friend of mine asked me to try dipping bread in very extra virgin olive oil + balsamic vinegar. It was in Pietrasanta (a cosy italien restaurant at Portsdown Road), and was heavenly then. After which, the combo did not quite taste the same. I gathered that the type of olive oil and vinegar does matter.

Until we tried this combo in Provence, I found that long lost taste again!!!

There is a Place just outside the Hotel, where you can find a few shaded cafés for alfresco dining, and many other choices at the small streets nearby. 

This post will probably be the last to feature pictures on food. By now, the Student is totally embarrassed to take pictures of food during dinner. We do feel a little intimidated by the stares received in the restaurant. Here, a French lady told her beau in french: "The Chinese is taking photos of their food". I kinda felt humiliated by this statement. All I wanted to do is to document tastes that I'm not familiar with. But I guess, this is rather inappropriate in a restaurant here. Alright, I've learnt my manners...

the Student ordered veau with a tart and quiche as sides - delicious, but nothing special

Beef stew - a speciality here. This is served with brown rice, superb combo.

Fromage blanc - we thought it would be a cheese platter. But no, the sauce in the shorter glasses are for us to mix into the cream cheese. Honey, sugar and a special sauce. Up to individual's preference to mix all or not.

Pistou soup - Speciality of the region. Taste good with the shredded cheese in the soup while it is hot. The cheese tasted like Emmental, or a kind of Swiss cheese.

Mussels with Tapenade - I realised I don't really like the taste of mussels, but it is quite good when eaten with the sauce. Tapenade, pistou and anchovy are the region's speciality sauces, it could be used as spreads, sauces or in soupe.